TNT pants coming along

I tried to post this last night, but was having internet connection problems.

I traced one more BWOF Friday, and I may be gearing down on the tracing. In a later post, I will get those numbers and post the links and also show you how I'm storing those patterns.

Yesterday, I worked some on the burda TNT that I told you about in an earlier post. Draft #1 was sewn together Thursday. See photos and then I'll explain what was done on this draft:







Before I cut any fabric (oh, and guess what I found? the rest of that orange twill that I had used for my jeans muslin) I did
Ann Rowley's flat seat adjustment. I found the reference for this adjustment on Stitcher's Guild sometime back.

I then cut the pattern and used the front pattern as it had been traced. I drew 1" seam allowances (SAs) on the side seam only. All other SAs, I traced at .5". I sewed this draft 1. I discovered that I needed to take in the side seams where they were curved for a rounder hip--which I don't have. In the photo, I have one side seam sewn with this increase and the other side just pinned.

That ended Thursday’s pant sewing.

Friday, looking at the photos as well as studying them in the mirror as I modeled them, I still had too much wrinkle under the butt. So, I pinned out approximately another .5” horizontal fish-eye dart horizontally at the crotch line. I took the pants apart, adjusted the back pieces taking the additional underbutt excess and redrew the sideseams. All the while I’m thinking “Am I trying to overfit these?” My mind answered, “possibly.”

I proceeded on—sewing the pants back together as Draft 2. Here are those photos:





The only change I made from the Draft 2 pattern was to scoop out the seat into more of an L shape. I think they look pretty good. I feel there is still more tweaking to do just below the dart area. I need to wear them a bit to see how the crotch feels. How do they look to you?